Best Areas in Anantnag to Explore Entirely on Foot
Words by
Farhan Shah
I have walked every lane in this city until my shoes gave out, and I still keep going back. The best areas to explore on foot in Anantnag are not the ones you will find on a glossy brochure. They are the ones where the morning mist clings to old wooden balconies, where the smell of fresh tandoor bread pulls you around a corner before you even realize you have turned. Anantnag rewards the slow traveler, the person willing to get a little lost and end up somewhere that does not have a signboard in English. I have spent years walking these streets, and I am going to take you through the neighborhoods that make this city feel like it was built for walking.
The Old City Around Jamia Masjid
Start near the Jamia Masjid in the heart of the old city, because this is where Anantnag breathes. The lanes here are narrow, barely wide enough for two people to walk side by side, and that is exactly the point. You will pass shops selling copper samovars, men sitting on wooden plinths arguing about cricket, and the occasional goat that has decided the middle of the lane is its personal living room. I walked through here last Tuesday morning around 7:30 AM, and the light was coming through the carved jharokha windows in a way that made the whole street look like a painting from the Mughal era.
The mosque itself is one of the oldest in the Kashmir Valley, built during the reign of Sultan Sikandar in the late 14th century. You do not need to enter to feel its presence. The surrounding lanes are where you will find the best kandur bakeries, the kind where the bread comes out of the tandoor every few minutes and the baker hands it to you wrapped in newspaper. A single piece of lavasa or tsochwor costs between ₹10 and ₹20. Buy it hot. Eat it while walking. Do not stop moving or the local kids will steal it from your hand, and they will be faster than you.
Local Insider Tip: "Walk the lane directly behind the mosque on a Friday afternoon around 3 PM. The call to prayer echoes off the old stone walls and the entire lane fills with men walking toward the mosque. It is one of the most powerful things you will witness in Anantnag, and no guidebook tells you about it."
The old city is best avoided during the peak summer months of May and June when the narrow lanes trap heat and the afternoon sun makes walking genuinely uncomfortable. Winter, from November to February, is when this area is at its most atmospheric. The cold air carries the smell of kangri embers and walnut wood smoke, and the chai tastes better because your hands need something warm to hold.
Lal Chowk and the Main Market Stretch
Lal Chowk is the commercial center of Anantnag, and it is chaotic in the way that only a Kashmiri market can be. I walked the full stretch from the bus stand side to the Dak Bungalow side on a Saturday evening, and it took me over an hour to cover what should have been a 15-minute walk. That is because you cannot walk through Lal Chowg without stopping. The dry fruit sellers will call out to you, the shawl shop owners will invite you in for tea, and the kebab vendors will hand you a free sample just to get you to stand still for a moment.
This is the place to buy Kashmiri spices, saffron, and dry fruits if you know how to bargain. A kilogram of good quality walnuts should cost you between ₹400 and ₹600 depending on the season and your negotiation skills. Saffron prices vary wildly, so do not buy from the first shop. Walk the entire stretch, compare prices, and then come back to the shop where the owner did not pressure you. That is usually the honest one.
The auto-rickshaw stand near Lal Chowk is the main hub for getting around the city. A ride from Lal Chowk to Kokernag should cost between ₹200 and ₹300, but drivers will quote ₹400 to tourists. Use the app-based cabs if you want a fair price, though they are not always available during peak hours.
Local Insider Tip: "There is a small chai stall on the first floor of a building just off the main market road, above a shop that sells school uniforms. The owner has been making noon chai there for over 30 years, and it costs ₹15 a cup. Most tourists walk right past it because there is no sign. Ask for the 'upstairs wala chai' and any shopkeeper will point you there."
Lal Chowk is walkable year-round, but the stretch becomes genuinely difficult to navigate during the monsoon months of July and August when waterlogging turns the lower sections into a mess. The best time to walk here is between 4 PM and 7 PM in autumn, when the light is golden and the market is at its most alive.
The Mughal Garden Trail: Shalimar and Nishat Connections
Anantnag is not just about the old city and the market. The Mughal heritage of the Kashmir Valley runs through this town in ways that most visitors overlook. I walked the trail that connects the smaller Mughal-era garden ruins on the outskirts of the city center to the main road near Kokernag, and it took me about two hours at a leisurely pace. The route passes through residential neighborhoods where old stone walls and carved wooden gates peek out behind modern concrete houses.
The gardens themselves are not as grand as the famous Shalimar Bagh in Srinagar, but they carry a quiet dignity that the tourist-heavy gardens have lost. Entry to most of these smaller gardens is free, though some charge a nominal fee of ₹10 to ₹20 for maintenance. The best time to walk this trail is in the early morning between 6:30 AM and 8:00 AM, when the light filters through the chinar trees and the only sound is birdsong and the distant call to prayer from a neighborhood mosque.
You will pass several small dhabas along the way where you can stop for a breakfast of noon chai and bakarkhani for around ₹40 to ₹60 per person. These are not fancy places. They are plastic chairs and tin roofs, but the food is made by people who have been cooking the same recipes for decades, and that consistency is worth more than any restaurant ambiance.
Local Insider Tip: "Carry a small bag of sugar candies or biscuits when you walk this trail. There are several families along the route who have been tending these gardens for generations, and if you stop to chat and offer a small sweet, they will tell you stories about the Mughal era that you will never find in any history book. One old man near the third garden told me about a tunnel that supposedly connected this garden to the main Mughal highway, though I have never been able to find the entrance."
This trail is best walked between March and May or September and November. The summer heat makes the open sections unbearable by 10 AM, and the winter fog can reduce visibility to almost nothing on some mornings.
Kokernag and the Walk Along the Springs
Kokernag is technically a separate town about 25 kilometers from Anantnag city center, but it is connected by a road that makes for one of the most rewarding walks in the region if you are willing to commit to it. I walked the stretch from the main Anantnag-Kokernag road turnoff to the actual spring garden on a cool October morning, and the entire route took me about 90 minutes. The road winds through apple orchards and small villages where the pace of life is so slow that even the dogs barely bother to bark at strangers.
The Kokernag springs themselves are a series of terraced pools fed by a natural spring that maintains a constant temperature year-round. Entry to the garden costs ₹20 for Indian nationals. The water is crystal clear, and you can see the bottom of the pools even at their deepest points. There is a small restaurant inside the garden that serves basic Kashmiri food. A plate of rista or goshtaba with rice will cost you between ₹180 and ₹280, which is slightly overpriced but acceptable given the location.
The walk from Anantnag city to Kokernag is not for everyone. It is a proper road walk with traffic, and there are stretches with no footpath. I would recommend taking an auto-rickshaw to the Kokernag garden entrance (₹200–₹300 from Lal Chowk) and then walking the internal paths and the surrounding village lanes. The internal garden paths are well-maintained and shaded by giant chinar trees, making them ideal for a slow afternoon walk.
Local Insider Tip: "Visit the springs on a weekday morning before 10 AM. On weekends, families from Srinagar and the surrounding towns descend on the place, and the peaceful atmosphere disappears under a wave of picnic coolers and loud music. On a Tuesday morning, you might have the entire garden to yourself, and the sound of the spring water is genuinely meditative."
Kokernag is best visited between April and June when the apple blossoms are in full bloom, or in October and November when the orchards are heavy with fruit. The monsoon months make the road walk miserable, and the garden paths can become slippery.
The University Road and College Area
The area around the University of Kashmir's South Campus and the Government Degree College in Anantnag has a completely different energy from the old city. I walked the full length of University Road on a Wednesday afternoon, and it felt like stepping into a different city altogether. The road is wide, lined with bookshops, stationery stores, and small cafes that cater to students. This is where the young people of Anantnag come to hang out, and the atmosphere is relaxed and unpretentious.
There are several small eateries along this road that serve some of the best and cheapest food in the city. A plate of chicken biryani at one of the student dhabas costs between ₹80 and ₹120, and it is genuinely good. The chai stalls here serve enormous cups for ₹10 to ₹15, and they are the kind of places where the owner remembers your face after two visits. I stopped at a small cafe near the college gate that served something they called "Kashmiri coffee," which was essentially a sweet, milky brew with a hint of cardamom. It cost ₹25 and was perfect for the cold afternoon.
The bookshops along University Road are worth browsing even if you do not read Urdu or Kashmiri. They stock secondhand textbooks, local poetry collections, and sometimes old maps of the Kashmir Valley that you will not find anywhere else. I picked up a hand-drawn map of old Anantnag for ₹50 from a shop near the university gate, and it now hangs on my wall.
Local Insider Tip: "Walk to the back of the Government Degree College campus in the late afternoon. There is a small open field behind the science block where students play cricket and football every day around 4 PM. If you sit on the boundary wall and watch for a while, someone will inevitably invite you to join. It is the fastest way to make friends in Anantnag, and the cricket is surprisingly competitive."
University Road is walkable year-round, but the best time is between October and March when the weather is cool enough to walk comfortably for hours. The summer months are fine in the early morning and late afternoon, but the midday sun on the open road is brutal.
The Banks of the Brengi River
The Brengi River flows through Anantnag, and the stretches along its banks are some of the most peaceful walking spots in the city. I walked the section from the main bridge near the city center downstream toward the residential areas on a Sunday morning, and for long stretches, I was completely alone. The river is not wide, and in some places it narrows to the point where you could throw a stone across it, but the water is clean and the banks are lined with willow trees that create a canopy of green in the warmer months.
There are no formal walking paths along the Brengi. You are walking on dirt tracks and sometimes through the yards of houses that back onto the river. This is not a tourist attraction. It is a living, working riverbank where people wash clothes, children play, and old men sit on rocks and fish with hand lines. The lack of formality is what makes it special. You are seeing Anantnag as it actually is, not as it presents itself to visitors.
The best time to walk the Brengi banks is in the early morning between 6:00 AM and 8:00 AM, when the light is soft and the river mist creates an almost ethereal atmosphere. In winter, the mist can be so thick that you can barely see 20 meters ahead, which is disorienting but beautiful. Carry a thermos of chai from one of the stalls near Lal Chowk before you start walking, because there are no food or drink vendors along the river itself.
Local Insider Tip: "About 2 kilometers downstream from the main bridge, there is a small stone structure on the left bank that looks like an old ruin. It is actually a pre-Mughal era water mill, and if you look closely at the stone channel, you can see how the water was diverted to turn the grinding wheel. Most people in Anantnag do not even know it is there. I found it by accident when I slipped on a wet rock and ended up exploring the area more carefully."
The riverbank walk is best avoided during the monsoon when the water level rises and the banks become muddy and dangerous. The ideal months are September through November and March through May.
The Hazratbal Shrine Area and Surrounding Lanes
The area around the Hazratbal Shrine in Anantnag is one of the most spiritually significant walking zones in the city. I walked the lanes surrounding the shrine on a Thursday evening, and the atmosphere was unlike anything else in Anantnag. The shrine houses a relic believed to be a hair of the Prophet Muhammad, and the devotion of the people who visit is palpable. The lanes leading to the shrine are lined with shops selling prayer caps, prayer beads, and religious books, and the air is thick with the scent of incense and rose water.
Entry to the shrine is free, and visitors of all faiths are welcome, though you must remove your shoes and cover your head. The best time to visit is on Thursday evening or Friday afternoon, when the shrine is at its most crowded and the collective energy of the devotees is overwhelming in the best possible way. I stood outside the main prayer hall for about 20 minutes, just watching people come and go, and it was one of the most moving experiences I have had in Anantnag.
The surrounding lanes are worth exploring even if you do not enter the shrine. There are several small restaurants that serve wazwan, the traditional Kashmiri feast, on request. A full wazwan meal for one person, including rista, gushtaba, tabak maaz, and rice, will cost between ₹350 and ₹500 depending on the restaurant. You usually need to order at least a few hours in advance, so ask your hotel or a local contact to arrange it for you.
Local Insider Tip: "After visiting the shrine, walk to the small lane on the eastern side where an old woman sells homemade shab deg, a slow-cooked turnip and mutton stew, from a large copper pot every Thursday and Friday. She does not have a shop. She sits on a mat on the ground and serves it in steel bowls for ₹60 a portion. It is the best shab deg I have ever eaten in the Kashmir Valley, and she has been making it the same way for over 40 years."
The shrine area is walkable year-round, but the winter months can be bitterly cold in the early morning and evening. The best walking weather is from March to May and September to November.
The Bus Stand and Transport Hub Area
I know what you are thinking. Why would anyone want to walk around a bus stand? But hear me out. The main bus stand area in Anantnag is one of the most dynamic and revealing parts of the city, and walking through it gives you a sense of the daily rhythm of life here that you cannot get anywhere else. I spent an entire morning walking the perimeter of the bus stand and the surrounding lanes, and I learned more about Anantnag in those three hours than I had in my previous three visits combined.
The bus stand is where the city connects to the rest of the valley. Buses arrive and depart constantly, carrying people to Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg, and dozens of smaller towns. The energy is frenetic and beautiful. Porters shout, bus conductors lean out of doors calling destinations, and the smell of diesel mixes with the smell of fresh bread from the bakeries across the street. A one-way bus ticket from Anantnag to Srinagar costs between ₹60 and ₹100 depending on the type of bus, and the journey takes about 90 minutes.
The lanes around the bus stand are where you will find some of the cheapest and most authentic food in the city. There is a small dhaba about 100 meters from the main entrance that serves rajma chawal for ₹50 and dal rice for ₹40. The portions are enormous, and the food is made by a family that has been running the place for at least two generations. I sat there for 45 minutes, eating slowly and watching the buses come and go, and it was one of the most enjoyable meals I have had in Anantnag.
Local Insider Tip: "If you want to take a local bus to a nearby village but do not know the schedule, do not ask at the ticket counter. Find the oldest bus in the lot and talk to the driver directly. Kashmiri bus drivers are some of the friendliest people you will meet, and they will not only tell you the schedule but will often tell you where to get off and what to see when you arrive. I got a full walking tour guide to Achabal from a bus driver who was on his break, and he refused to accept any payment for the advice."
The bus stand area is walkable at any time of year, but it is at its most interesting between 7 AM and 10 AM, when the morning rush is at its peak. The area can be overwhelming for first-time visitors, so go with an open mind and a willingness to be jostled.
The Residential Lanes of Nowgam and Dialgam
The residential neighborhoods of Nowgam and Dialgam, on the southern edge of Anantnag city, are where you go to see how ordinary people live. I walked through both areas on a Friday morning, and the experience was a masterclass in everyday Kashmiri life. The lanes are quiet, lined with modest houses that have small gardens in front, and the pace of life is so slow that it feels like time has stopped.
In Nowgam, I passed a group of elderly men sitting outside a mosque, drinking chai and discussing politics. One of them called out to me and invited me to join them. I sat with them for about 30 minutes, and they told me stories about Anantnag before the conflict, when tourists used to come in large numbers and the city was known for its gardens and its hospitality rather than anything else. It was a conversation I will never forget, and it would not have happened if I had been walking through Lal Chowk or the old city.
Dialgam is slightly further out and more rural in character. The lanes here pass through small farms and orchards, and the air smells of earth and grass rather than diesel and dust. There are no shops or restaurants in the traditional sense, but if you walk through on a weekday morning, you will see women making noon chai in their courtyards and children walking to school in neat uniforms. It is the kind of scene that reminds you that Anantnag is not just a tourist destination. It is a living, breathing city with its own rhythms and routines.
Local Insider Tip: "In Nowgam, there is a small bakery about 200 meters from the main road that makes the best kulcha in Anantnag. The owner bakes them in a tandoor that is at least 50 years old, and they cost ₹15 each. They are only available between 7 AM and 9 AM, and they sell out fast. I arrived at 8:15 AM on my first visit and they were already gone. I came back the next day at 7:30 AM and got the last four. Worth the early start."
These residential lanes are best walked in the morning between 7 AM and 10 AM, when the light is good and people are out and about. The summer months are fine for early morning walks, but the winter fog can make navigation difficult if you do not know the area well.
When to Go and What to Know
Anantnag is a city that changes dramatically with the seasons, and your walking experience will depend entirely on when you visit. The best months for walking are March to May and September to November, when the weather is cool and the skies are clear. Summer, from June to August, can be hot in the city center, though the evenings are usually pleasant. Winter, from December to February, is cold but beautiful, with snow possible in January and February.
Wear comfortable shoes with good grip. The lanes in the old city are uneven, and the riverbank paths can be slippery. Carry a reusable water bottle, though you should not drink tap water in Anantnag. Sealed bottled water is available everywhere for ₹20 to ₹30 per liter. Auto-rickshaws are the main mode of local transport, and a short ride within the city should cost between ₹30 and ₹60. App-based cabs are available but not always reliable.
Respect local customs, especially around religious sites. Dress modestly, remove your shoes when entering mosques and shrines, and always ask before photographing people. Kashmiris are among the most hospitable people I have ever met, and a simple "salaam" goes a long way.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are there good co-working spaces or cafes in Anantnag that stay open past 9 PM for late-night work sessions?
Anantnag does not have dedicated co-working spaces in the way that Bangalore or Delhi do. A few cafes along University Road and near the main market stay open until 10 PM or 11 PM, but reliable WiFi is inconsistent. If you need to work late, your best bet is to use your hotel room and a personal mobile hotspot. Most mid-range hotels provide WiFi that works for basic browsing but struggles with video calls.
How many days are realistically needed to cover the best food, culture, and sightseeing in Anantnag without feeling rushed?
Three full days is the minimum to cover the old city, the Mughal gardens, the riverbanks, and a trip to Kokernag without rushing. If you want to include the residential neighborhoods and the university area, add a fourth day. Anantnag is not a city that rewards checklist tourism. The best experiences come from slowing down and letting the city reveal itself to you over time.
What is the average cost of a filter coffee, masala chai, or specialty brew at a mid-range cafe in Anantnag?
A cup of noon chai at a street stall costs between ₹10 and ₹20. At a slightly more upscale cafe, expect to pay ₹25 to ₹50 for a Kashmiri-style coffee or sweet milk tea. Filter coffee in the South Indian sense is not common in Anantnag. Most cafes serve a local variation that is closer to a sweet, cardamom-flavored milk brew. Specialty brews like espresso or cappuccino are available at one or two cafes near the university for ₹80 to ₹150.
Is tap water safe to drink in Anantnag, or should travelers rely on sealed bottled water, and is filtered water readily available at dhabas and restaurants?
Tap water in Anantnag is not safe for visitors to drink. Stick to sealed bottled water, which is available at every shop and costs ₹20 to ₹30 per liter. Some mid-range restaurants and hotels provide filtered water, but always confirm before drinking. Carrying a reusable bottle with a built-in filter is a practical option if you plan to walk for extended periods.
What are the best free or low-cost things to do and see in Anantnag that are genuinely rewarding and not just filler stops on a tour itinerary?
Walking the banks of the Brengi River costs nothing and is one of the most peaceful experiences in the city. Visiting the smaller Mughal garden ruins on the outskirts is free or costs ₹10 to ₹20. The lanes around the Hazratbal Shrine are free to explore and offer a window into the spiritual life of the city. Sitting at a chai stall in the old city and watching the world go by costs ₹10 to ₹20 and will teach you more about Anantnag than any guided tour.
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