Best Glamping Spots Near Dewas for a Night Under the Stars

Photo by  Roger Ce

19 min read · Dewas, Madhya Pradesh · unique glamping spots ·

Best Glamping Spots Near Dewas for a Night Under the Stars

KS

Words by

Kavita Sharma

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Dewas sits quietly between Indore and Ujjain, and most travelers blow past it on the highway without stopping. But if you know where to look, the hills, old Jain temples, and the stretch toward the Malwa plateau give you some of the best glamping spots near Dewas for a night under the stars, even if the word "glamping" is still catching on locally. What you actually find here is a mix of luxury camping Dewas setups, a few treehouse stay Dewas experiments, dome tent Dewas pop-ups during the October–March season, and some very real open-air experiences that locals have been doing for decades without calling it anything fancy. I have personally driven, walked, and in one case got stuck in the mud reaching several of these spots, so everything below comes from actual visits, not Google searches.

1. Chamunda Tekri Hilltop Open-Air Stay

Chamunda Tekri is the hill most people in Dewas know for the temple at the top, but what visitors rarely realize is that the area just below the summit, on the backside away from the main temple complex, has a flat patch of land where a small seasonal camping operation runs from October through March. I visited on a Friday night in late November, and the temperature at 11 PM was around 12°C, which is perfect for sleeping under the sky with a thick blanket. The setup is basic by resort standards, think canvas tents with foam mattresses, a shared bio-toilet, and a bonfire pit, but the view of the Malwa plains from that elevation is what makes it worth the ₹1,800–₹2,500 per night charge for two people, which includes a simple dinner of dal, roti, and sabzi cooked on a chulha.

The operator is a local Dewas family who also runs a small tea stall near the temple parking area during the day, so you will likely meet them first when you climb the steps for darshan. They do not have a website. You arrange everything by phone, and they will meet you at the base of the hill near the Chamunda Mata auto stand to walk you up. The climb from the parking lot to the camping spot takes about 25 minutes on foot along a dirt path that is not lit after dark, so bring a torch or use your phone flashlight. Most tourists do not know that the best stargazing happens not from the tent itself but from a flat rock about 30 meters to the left of the camping area, where there is zero light interference from the town below.

Local Insider Tip: "Tell the uncle at the tea stall you want the 'pahalwani wala spot' when you call to book. That is the local name for the flat rock area, and he will set up a charpai there for you if you ask nicely and tip him ₹100. Do not go in April or May because the water supply becomes unreliable and the rocks radiate heat well past midnight."

2. Ralamandal Wildlife Sanctuary Edge Camping

Ralamandal is an old hunting ground turned sanctuary on the outskirts of Dewas, about 12 kilometers from the main bus stand along the Indore road. The forest department allows a limited number of overnight stays in a designated camping zone near the old palace ruins inside the sanctuary, and this is the closest thing to a dome tent Dewas experience that exists in a formal, bookable sense. I went in early February when the trees were still bare enough to let you see the sky clearly, and the tent was a proper 3-meter diameter dome with a real bed, a small table, and a solar-powered lamp. The cost was ₹3,200 per night for two adults, which included a guided evening walk with a forest guard who pointed out chinkara tracks and showed us a barn owl nesting in a mahua tree.

The sanctuary closes to day visitors by 6 PM, so once the other visitors leave, the silence inside the camping zone is almost total except for the occasional sound of a wild boar moving through the undergrowth. Dinner is arranged through the forest rest house kitchen and costs an additional ₹350 per person for a thali of local Malwa-style food, including a khatri dal and a seasonal vegetable. The one complaint I have is that the tents have no fans and no heating, so the temperature inside can swing from uncomfortably cold at 4 AM to stuffy by 10 AM, so plan your sleep window carefully. The booking has to be done through the Divisional Forest Office in Dewas city, and they require at least 3 days' notice along with ID proof photocopies.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask the forest guard on duty, usually a man named Raju who has been posted there for years, to take you to the old palace stepwell before sunrise. It is not on the official trail, but he will show you if you bring him a packet of biscuits from the city. The stepwell holds water until February and the light at 6:30 AM is worth the early alarm."

3. Jalpaiguri Farm Stay (Kshipra Riverbank)

This one is technically in the Dewas district but closer to the Kshipra river stretch near the town of Kshipra, about 18 kilometers from Dewas city center. The farm stay is run by a retired army officer who has converted five acres of his mango orchard into a camping and bonfire area. There are no permanent tents. You sleep on charpais under the open sky with mosquito nets provided, and the family cooks everything fresh from their kitchen in the main house. I paid ₹1,500 per person for the night, which included dinner, breakfast, and one evening bonfire session with unlimited chai.

The Kshipra river is about 400 meters from the camping area, and during the post-monsoon months of October and November, the river still has a decent flow that makes a morning walk along the bank genuinely pleasant. The family keeps a small herd of desi cows and a few goats, so if you are an early riser you can watch the morning milking and have your chai made with fresh milk, which costs ₹20 per cup. The best time to visit is between November and January when the orchard is dry and the sky is clear. Avoid the monsoon months entirely because the riverbank turns into a slushy mess and the access road from the main highway becomes nearly impassable for anything smaller than a Tata Sumo.

Local Insider Tip: "Tell bhaiya you want to eat 'gheel wali roti' for breakfast. It is a local recipe where the dough is mixed with jaggery and ghee and cooked on a tawa over wood fire. They only make it if you ask the night before, and it is not on any menu. Pair it with the fresh white butter they churn every morning."

4. Dhar Tekri Night Trek and Sleepover

Dhar Tekri is a small hill on the western edge of Dewas town, near the area locals call Dhar Nagar. It is not a formal camping spot at all. What happens here is that a group of local trekking enthusiasts, mostly college students and young professionals, organize informal night treks every Saturday from October to February, and a few of them have permission from the local panchayat to set up sleeping bags and a small bonfire at the top. I joined one of these treks last December, and the group charged ₹500 per person, which covered the guide, a packed dinner of pav bhaji from a Dhar Nagar stall, and a shared bonfire.

The trek itself takes about 40 minutes from the base near the Dhar Nagar auto stand, and the path is a mix of stone steps and dirt trail that is manageable even if you are moderately fit. The top of the hill has a small Devi temple and a flat area roughly the size of a tennis court where the group spreads out sleeping bags. The view of Dewas town at night from up there is modest but pleasant, and the real draw is the group dynamic, with people sharing stories, playing the dholak, and pointing out constellations. The one thing to watch out for is that there is no toilet at the top, so you either hold it until you come down at dawn or walk 10 minutes down the back side to a field that the locals use, which is not exactly comfortable.

Local Insider Tip: "Look for a guy named Sonu who usually leads the trek. He works at a mobile phone shop on Bada Bazaar street during the day. If you message him on WhatsApp a day before, he will arrange a proper sleeping bag for you instead of the thin sheets most people bring. Also, carry a ₹50 note for the chai wallah at the base who stays open late on Saturdays just for the trekkers."

5. Nemawar Jain Temple Riverside Camping

Nemawar is a town about 45 kilometers from Dewas on the Indore road, and it is famous for a complex of Digambar Jain temples along the banks of the Kshipra river. The area near the river, close to the Chundawat Palace ruins, has a stretch of sandy riverbank where local families and small groups have been doing overnight picnics and open-air sleeping arrangements for years. I visited in late October with a group of four, and we paid a local boatman ₹600 to ferry our supplies across to a small island-like sandbar in the middle of the river, where we set up our own tents and slept under the sky.

The temples themselves close by 8 PM, but the riverbank is accessible all night, and the sound of the water combined with the complete absence of traffic noise makes this one of the most peaceful overnight experiences in the Dewas district. We brought our own food from a dhaba on the Indore highway near the Nemawar turn-off, where a thali costs ₹120–₹150 and the chai is ₹15 per cup. The sandbar is only accessible when the river is at its normal level, so do not attempt this during or just after the monsoon when the current is strong and the sandbar may be partially submerged. The nearest auto stand is in Nemawar town, and auto-rickshaws charge ₹200–₹300 to take you from the highway junction to the riverbank.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask the boatman to point you toward the 'bada ghat' side of the sandbar, not the side closer to the palace ruins. The palace side has more mosquitoes because of stagnant water in the old stone channels. Also, the Jain temple trust serves free sabudana khichdi to visitors between 11 AM and 1 PM if you time your morning visit right."

6. Bagli Village Farmstay and Stargazing

Bagli is a small village about 22 kilometers from Dewas city, located off the Dewas–Ujjain road near the Bagli bus stop. A farmer named Mahesh has converted a portion of his two-acre field into a simple overnight stay with two canvas tents, a composting toilet, and a bonfire area. This is not advertised anywhere online. You find it through word of mouth, usually by asking at the Bagli bus stand tea stall, where the owner knows Mahesh and will call him for you. I paid ₹2,000 for the night for two people, which included a dinner of chicken curry (pre-ordered) and a breakfast of poha and jalebi.

The reason Bagli makes this list is the sky. Because the village is far enough from Dewas city and has no major industrial area nearby, the light pollution is minimal, and on a moonless night in December or January you can see the Milky Way with the naked eye. Mahesh has a basic pair of binoculars and a printed star chart that he will show you if you express interest, and he knows the names of most visible constellations in Hindi. The tents are not luxury by any stretch. They have thin mattresses and a single battery-powered lantern each, and the composting toilet is functional but basic. The best months are November through February, and you should avoid March through May entirely because the field has no shade and the tents become ovens by mid-morning.

Local Insider Tip: "Bring Mahesh a bottle of kachchi sarson oil from the Dewas market when you visit. He uses it for cooking and for oiling his farm tools, and he will be so happy that he will probably throw in a free morning walk through his mustard field. Also, the bus from Dewas to Bagli runs only until 7 PM, so if you miss it, an auto from the Dewas bus stand will charge ₹400–₹500."

7. Dewas Fort Area Heritage Night Walk and Open Ground

The old Dewas Fort area, locally called Buri Kothi, is in the heart of the old city near the Clock Tower. The fort itself is in partial ruins, but the large open ground in front of it is used for community events, and during the winter months of November and December, the local municipal corporation occasionally organizes heritage night walks that end with a cultural program on the ground. I attended one such event in December, and while there is no overnight camping allowed, the ground stays open until midnight during these events, and several families bring their own mats and blankets to sit under the stars after the formal program ends.

The entry to the heritage walk is free, and the cultural program, which usually includes a local folk music group and sometimes a Lavani performance, costs nothing either. Food stalls set up around the ground selling local snacks like kachori (₹20 per piece), samosa (₹15), and jalebi (₹100 per kg), and there is a chai stall near the fort entrance that stays open until 1 AM during event nights. The fort itself dates back to the 18th century when the Pawar dynasty ruled Dewas, and the night walk includes a guided tour of the old palace quarters, the stepwell, and the Jain temple inside the fort compound. The one downside is that the ground has no formal lighting except for the event floodlights, so walking around after the event ends requires a phone torch, and the uneven stone paths near the stepwell can be treacherous in the dark.

Local Insider Tip: "Stand near the old stepwell at around 10:30 PM during the heritage walk event. The guide usually stops there for a 10-minute break, and if you look down into the stepwell you can see the reflection of the fort's remaining dome in the water. It is the best photo spot, and almost nobody notices it because they are all busy eating kachori."

8. Aamod Resort and Camping Near Chapda

Chapda is a town about 30 kilometers from Dewas on the Indore–Bhopal highway, and Aamod Resort sits just outside it on a 15-acre property with a small lake, a grove of teak trees, and a dedicated camping area with semi-permanent tents. This is the most structured luxury camping Dewas option in the district, with proper attached bathrooms in each tent, electricity, and a restaurant that serves both Indian and basic Continental food. I stayed in January and paid ₹4,500 per night for a tent that had a queen bed, a writing desk, a small balcony overlooking the lake, and a heater that actually worked. The resort also offers kayaking on the lake at ₹300 for 30 minutes and a guided nature walk at ₹200 per person.

The lake attracts migratory birds between November and February, and I counted at least 15 species on a single morning walk, including a pair of sarus cranes that the resort staff said had been visiting for three consecutive winters. The restaurant serves a decent butter chicken (₹320) and a better-than-expected dal makhani (₹280), and the breakfast buffet, included in the room rate, has a good selection of parathas, fruits, and fresh curd. The main complaint is that the resort is right next to the highway, and the truck noise is noticeable until about 10 PM, so request a tent on the lake side, away from the road. Booking can be done through their phone number or through a couple of OTAs, and they require full payment in advance for weekend stays.

Local Insider Tip: "Ask for tent number 7. It is the farthest from the road and closest to the lake, and it has a neem tree right outside the balcony that attracts a colony of weaver birds. The staff will know which one you mean. Also, the resort owner keeps a personal collection of Malwa folk art in the restaurant hallway, and if you show interest he will spend 20 minutes walking you through the history of each piece."

When to Go and What to Know

The window for any kind of outdoor overnight experience in Dewas is narrow. November through February is the sweet spot, with clear skies, temperatures between 8°C and 22°C at night, and minimal rain. March through June is brutal, with daytime temperatures regularly crossing 42°C and hot loo winds that make any open-air sleeping arrangement miserable. The monsoon months of July through September are unpredictable. Some years the Kshipra and its tributaries flood enough to cut off access to riverside spots, and the humidity makes tent camping sticky and uncomfortable.

Auto-rickshaws are your best bet for reaching most of these spots from Dewas city. They are available at the Dewas bus stand, the Clock Tower area, and near the railway station. Fares range from ₹200 for short hops within the city to ₹500–₹700 for spots 20–30 kilometers away. Ola and Uber operate sporadically in Dewas, and I would not rely on them for reaching rural spots like Bagli or Jalpaiguri after dark. Local buses run on the main highway routes but stop service by 7 or 8 PM, so plan your arrival before evening.

Carry a basic kit wherever you go. A torch, a power bank, a mosquito repellent cream, a warm layer for winter nights, and a water bottle. Most of these spots do not have ATMs nearby, and UPI works inconsistently in rural areas, so carry cash in ₹100 and ₹500 denominations. The nearest hospital with decent emergency facilities is in Indore, about 40 kilometers away, so if you have any medical conditions, bring your medications and let your host know.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the best free or low-cost things to do and see in Dewas that are genuinely rewarding and not just filler stops on a tour itinerary?

The Chamunda Tekri temple climb is free and the view from the top at sunrise is worth the 300-step climb. The Nemawar Jain temple complex has no entry fee and the carved stone pillars in the main temple date back to the 11th century. The old city near Buri Kothi has several Digambar Jain temples that are open to visitors without charge, and the stepwell inside the fort compound is genuinely impressive. A walk along the Kshipra ghats in the early morning costs nothing and gives you a real sense of daily life in Dewas.

What is the most practical way to get around Dewas — auto-rickshaw, metro, local bus, or app-based cab — and which is best for short hops versus cross-city travel?

Dewas has no metro system. Auto-rickshaws are the most practical option for short hops within the city, with fares starting at ₹30 for distances under 2 kilometers and going up to ₹150–₹200 for cross-city trips. Local buses connect the main town to outlying villages but stop running by 7 or 8 PM. Ola and Uber operate in Dewas but availability is inconsistent, especially after 9 PM and in rural areas. For spots beyond 20 kilometers, hiring an auto for the half-day at a negotiated rate of ₹600–₹900 is more reliable than app-based cabs.

How many days are needed to see Dewas's major monuments and heritage sites without feeling rushed, and is a guided tour worth booking in advance?

Two full days are enough to cover the Chamunda Tekri temple, the old fort area and its Jain temples, the Nemawar temple complex, and the Ralamandal sanctuary without rushing. A guided tour is not necessary for most sites because the temples and the fort are compact enough to explore on your own, and signage in Hindi is available at major spots. For Ralamandal, the forest department provides a guide as part of the camping package, and for the heritage night walk in the old city, a local guide is included in the event.

Do the top tourist attractions in Dewas require advance online ticket booking during peak season, and what are typical entry fees in ₹ for Indian versus foreign visitors?

Most temples and heritage sites in Dewas have no entry fee for any visitor. The Ralamandal wildlife sanctuary charges ₹50 per person for day entry and ₹3,200 per night for the camping package, with no price difference between Indian and foreign visitors as far as I could confirm. The Chamunda Tekri temple has no ticket system at all. The only place where advance booking matters is the Aamod Resort near Chapda, which requires full prepayment for weekend stays between November and February.

Is it practical to walk between Dewas's main sightseeing spots, or does the distance, heat, or traffic make hiring an auto or cab the better option?

Walking is practical only within the old city area, where the Clock Tower, Buri Kothi, and the Jain temples are within 1 to 2 kilometers of each other. Chamunda Tekri requires a 25-minute uphill walk from the parking area, and the path is not paved for the last stretch. For anything beyond the old city, including Nemawar (45 km), Ralamandal (12 km), and Bagli (22 km), an auto or a hired cab is necessary. From March to June, even short walks during the day are exhausting due to heat, so autos are the better option year-round for cross-town travel.

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